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Ethernet

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  • Avatar
    Kjellhult

    Thanks for my second custom driver, but still no change.  I think I'll give up on the DUB-E100 and get an Apple USB Ethernet dongle.  Quite a few people have had success with those in this thread.

    Again, thanks for all the help.  In your last note, you mention some added logging - is that in the dmesg output?  And are you curious to see it or should I just leave it at this?

    Super customer service - I do appreciate your time on this issue.

    Kjell

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    RainMachine Nicholas

    Yes, you can put the dmesg output when the dongle is detected although won't help much.

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    Kjellhult

    Just for completeness, here's the last dmesg output with the latest driver with extra logging:

     

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/afarr7655tx4bj2/latest%20dmesg%20output.txt?dl=0

     

     

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    Kjellhult

    My "Apple" ethernet -> USB dongle finally arrived and doesn't appear to work.  Looking at the dmesg output I'm suspecting that I bought a counterfeit since "Apple" appears nowhere in the output.  Still just get a blinking wrench icon when I turn off WiFi.

     

    Here's a snippet of the dmesg output:

    <6>[    1.995632] OneNAND driver initializing
    <6>[    2.000188] CAN device driver interface
    <6>[    2.004229] CAN bus driver for Bosch D_CAN controller 1.0
    <6>[    2.010932] usb 1-1: New USB device found, idVendor=0bda, idProduct=8152
    <6>[    2.017964] usb 1-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3
    <6>[    2.025439] usb 1-1: Product: USB 10/100 LAN
    <6>[    2.029898] usb 1-1: Manufacturer: Realtek
    <6>[    2.034183] usb 1-1: SerialNumber: 00E04C3604FB
    <6>[    2.051148] davinci_mdio davinci_mdio.0: davinci mdio revision 1.6
    <4>[    2.057612] davinci_mdio davinci_mdio.0: no live phy, scanning all
    <4>[    2.064297] davinci_mdio: probe of davinci_mdio.0 failed with error -5
    <6>[    2.071167] PPP generic driver version 2.4.2
    <6>[    2.075795] PPP BSD Compression module registered
    <6>[    2.080716] PPP Deflate Compression module registered
    <6>[    2.086834] cdc_ether 1-1:2.0: eth0: register 'cdc_ether' at usb-musb-hdrc.0-1, CDC Ethernet Device, 00:e0:4c:36:04:fb
    <6>[    2.098150] usbcore: registered new interface driver cdc_ether
    <6>[    2.104316] usbcore: registered new interface driver cdc_eem
    <6>[    2.110271] usbcore: registered new interface driver dm9601
    <6>[    2.116149] usbcore: registered new interface driver cdc_subset
    <6>[    2.122381] cdc_ncm: 04-Aug-2011
    <6>[    2.125804] usbcore: registered new interface driver cdc_ncm
    <6>[    2.131820] usbcore: registered new interface driver cdc_acm
    <6>[    2.137732] cdc_acm: USB Abstract Control Model driver for USB modems and ISDN adapters
    <6>[    2.146108] Initializing USB Mass Storage driver...
    <6>[    2.151358] usbcore: registered new interface driver usb-storage
    <6>[    2.157634] USB Mass Storage support registered.
    <6>[    2.162581] usbcore: registered new interface driver usbserial
    <6>[    2.168716] USB Serial support registered for generic
    <6>[    2.174091] usbcore: registered new interface driver usbserial_generic
    <6>[    2.180912] usbserial: USB Serial Driver core
    <6>[    2.185519] USB Serial support registered for GSM modem (1-port)
    <6>[    2.192032] usbcore: registered new interface driver option
    <6>[    2.197853] option: v0.7.2:USB Driver for GSM modems
    <6>[    2.203399] mousedev: PS/2 mouse device common for all mice

     

    The dongle and packaging both look incredibly authentic if it is a fake, and yet for all I know, Apple uses Realtek chips and maybe it is authentic and instead it's my RainMachine that's hosed.  Is there any way to force a re-install of the firmware?  I continue to get that Android error message telling me there are two errors every time I boot with an Ethernet dongle plugged in.  Would be nice to start from scratch to know that everything is as close to factory-fresh as it can get.

     

    Thanks

    Kjell

     

     

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    Kjellhult

    Nicholas

     

    It appears that I've gotten farther with this adapter than with the prior, but still no connection.  I wanted to pass on this output in case you can see any further troubleshooting techniques.

     

    Kjell-MBP:~ kjellhult$ ssh -i ~/.ssh/id_rsa root@192.168.3.113
    void endpwent()(3) is not implemented on Android
    root@rainmachine:/ # netcfg
    lo       UP                                   127.0.0.1/8   0x00000049 00:00:00:00:00:00
    eth0     DOWN                                   0.0.0.0/0   0x00001002 00:e0:4c:36:04:fb
    sit0     DOWN                                   0.0.0.0/0   0x00000080 00:00:00:00:00:00
    eth1     UP                                     0.0.0.0/0   0x00001003 d0:ff:50:26:99:19
    wlan0    UP                               192.168.3.113/24  0x00001043 e8:de:27:18:2d:e2
    root@rainmachine:/ # lsusb
    Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002
    Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002
    Bus 002 Device 002: ID 0bda:8179
    Bus 001 Device 002: ID 0bda:8152
    root@rainmachine:/ # netcfg eth1 dhcp
    ^C
    130|root@rainmachine:/ #

     

    It would appear that the driver loads (evidenced by the fact that eth1 shows?) but doesn't pass any traffic if I turn off wlan0.  Just wanted you to have as much info as possible if you want to look into it any further.

    Thanks for all the help so far.

    Kjell

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    lanbrown (Edited )

    It won't pass traffic until it gets an IP address.  Obviously DHCP would be preferred but you could try a static.  Can you enter say:

     

    ifconfig eth1 192.168.3.14 netmask 255.255.255.0 up

    Substutute the IP for your wired network for the 192.168.3.14 in the example.  Then from the command line, can you:

    ping 127.0.0.1

    ping 192.168.3.14 (or whatever IP you gave it)

    ping (the default gateway)

     

    ***EDIT***

     

    Actually, eth0 has a Realtek Mac address on it.  So if your adapter is identifying itself as a Realtek, then it appears to be eth0 and not eth1.

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    Kjellhult

    Thank you very much for the help Ian.  I followed your instructions and was able to have the RealTek device join the network (according to my Disney Circle which notified me of the new device found)...  I think that tells me that the driver is already there and the device is supported by RainMachine.

    But then what?  If I then turn off WiFi on the RainMachine, it's not like Ethernet picks up right where WiFi left off (is it supposed to?).  If I then reboot, we're right back where we started and I get that cursed blinking wrench icon.

    Just to clarify your instructions, am I assigning the *same* IP to the eth0 / eth1 interface that the wifi has already pulled using DHCP?  For example, my RainMachine tends to get 192.168.3.113 from my router (using WiFi, obviously, since it never pulls an address on Ethernet) as it boots up.  I then ssh in - do I use the ifconfig command to assign x.x.x.113 to the Ethernet dongle, even though that address is already in use by the WiFi interface?  (I've tried both ways - assigned it the same address, then assigned one that I know is not in use (after a network scan with Angry IP Scanner)).

    But I guess I'm not sure if your instructions were a way of determining whether or not the device is supported (it appears to be) or whether they're designed to be a long-term solution.

     

    And can anyone tell me whether they get that same Android error message when booting up with the Ethernet dongle plugged in?  While booting with the Ethernet dongle plugged in, I get a "Power cycling the device needed (2 exceptions occurred)" error message during the "Loading RainMachine data" screen.  Is this normal, or is there something wrong with my unit?  Is there a way to sideload or otherwise force a software refresh so I can start from scratch?  (Though it's not like I've messed with the OS other than the changes that Nicholas told me to do specifically.)

     

    Thanks again.

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    lanbrown

    This was more of a test than anything else.  Yes a reboot clears that config out for the wired connection.  Look at what we learned.

    1) The correct interface is eth1 whereas you thought it was eth0

    2) That the driver and adapter are both working.

     

    So now we can work on getting it configured correctly and permanently.

    Power cycle the RainMachine so we are working with a clean slate for eth1.  If you give this command:

    ifconfig eth1 dhcp status

    If that command doesn't work, try:

    ifconfig interface eth1 dhcp status

    This will tell us if dhcp is enabled on eth1 or not.  If it is, what happens if you plug a cable in?  Does it still work if you unplug the wireless dongle?

    If your device is not getting an IP address via DHCP, then lets configure a static one via the following:

    ifconfig eth1 192.168.3.113 netmask 255.255.255.0 gw 192.168.3.1 up

    That is assuming your router is 192.168.3.1.

    Then if you unplug the wireless dongle, does it still work?  The device will not like having the same IP on two interfaces.  You can use a different IP address if you would like, just enter it instead of the current IP assigned to the wireless interface.

    Lastly, can you perform the following command and provide the output:

    cat /etc/network/interfaces

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    Kjellhult

    Ian

     

    Thank you very much for your last post and I apologize for the slow reply.  I've tried what you wrote and there just doesn't seem there's any way to have the RainMachine use the dongle for internet access.  The driver appears to load, and I can configure the dongle to pull an IP from my router - it shows up on the network - but the RainMachine ignores it.

     

    I've been messing with this so long I think I give up until the next firmware update.  I've used the ethernet cable I ran to the RainMachine for a Raspberry Pi configured as an access point.  Not quite the permanence I was hoping for, but at least I have four bars on my WiFi icon rather than the one I had when we started.

     

    I have a plethora of USB -> Ethernet dongles now; still hoping to use one of them with the next firmware update when I hope it will automagically work.

    Thanks to Ian and Nicholas for all the help.  Sorry to give up but I've spent so many hours on this and it's clearly beyond me.

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    lanbrown

    With the Touch models out of stock until January, toss it on eBay and just buy the Pro model with the builtin Ethernet port on it.  You will never need to worry about the dongle and driver issues again.

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    Kjellhult

    I just want to close the loop here since so much of this thread deals with my problems.

    I took Ian's advice  - I sold my old HD unit on eBay and got a new Pro while they were on sale.  Even though things were working well using the RPi as a WiFi access point (giving my RainMachine a nice strong signal), I'm glad I did it.  The new Pro seems rock solid, but boy what a crappy little pixelated screen.  But since I never look at it, it's not an issue.  Migrating from the HD to the Pro was a little strange - I was ready to program the new one after turning it on, but my phone app offered to use my old HD configuration to do it automatically.  I clicked OK and for some reason it lost Zone 1 - so old zone 2 became new zone 1 and down the line (kind of like copying an array [0 - 15] to [1 - 16]).  So I had to rename everything - maybe Green Electronics will look into that bug.

    But my USB - Ethernet dongle shenanigans are over.  Again, I appreciate all the help offered and sorry to be a quitter.

     

     

     

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    lanbrown

    Yeah, the screen isn't the best but in many cases, you never see it and something is better than nothing when it comes to troubleshooting.  One reason why I don't like units with no screen.

    I believe on the HD Touch units, Zone 1 can either be Zone 1 or for the master valve whereas the Pro unit has a dedicated master valve terminal.  So that would explain what you saw.  Maybe a further refinement would be for the config to be looked at and if Zone 1 is a master valve, that it then reorders the rest of the valves when the config is migrated to a Pro unit?

    If you need an Ethernet connection, the Pro model will always be better than the HD Touch with a dongle.  To me the bigger issue will be that Fast Ethernet dongles will become harder to find in the future, chipsets will change and then you have issues getting a new dongle to work.  It is just far easier and makes them far simpler to use a Pro if you need Ethernet.

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